This first Tharaka visit takes place only about three months after our family arrive in Kenya. We were so new to the culture and people but we arrived at a historically tragic time of drouth for all of Africa.
We were living in Meru and teaching at the Bible School which was about 60 kilometers away from Tharaka and at a much higher elevation. Severe drouth was present there also and a steady stream of people were pouring into our area daily looking for jobs and food. People were coming to our door throughout the day asking for food. We wrapped up dry rice and beans in newspaper and gave it out as long as it lasted.
My husband had read in the local papers about hardships and suffering in the surrounding areas. Finally, he asked a teacher at the Bible school to take him to the most needy tribal group he could reach in one day. Tharaka was the teachers answer! My husband had read in the paper that there had been a cholera epidemic causing many deaths in that area (do you remember how many since we mention a number later?). He had also heard students talking about tribal conflicts between the Meru and Therakan people involving the deaths of three Tharakan men recently.
The teacher, my husband, and I loaded the truck with large sacks of corn and beans which we purchased at the market. Very soon after that, food was only found in Nairobi.
Road in Tharaka
The journey to Tharaka required slow driving over dirt roads which were mostly sand and large rocks the vehicle had to drive over. The bridges were very primative having small logs with very wide spaces in between. Much of the road was only walking paths so my husband took his machete out and cut away the brush to make a place to drive through.
As the elevation decreased it became very hot so we quickly shed anything with sleeves from early morning. Billows of red dust blow over us so windows have to be closed and hanker-chiefs tied around our faces. This first drive to Tharaka took at least five hours. People often ask us “How did you find this place?” In early years my husband trimmed it down to about four hours driving time. Today, with a few paved roads and improved dirt roads, travel from Meru to Tharaka can be done in about an hour and a half if no rain. It’s best if you just don’t travel during heavy rains. You could be stuck digging yourself out or a large truck could be across the road hindering you from any travel at all.
On our arrival, the situation in Tharaka was much more troubling than the road we traveled. People were walking about aimlessly with blank stares on their faces. They had lost loved ones, were starving, and many were sick and had given up hope. The death toll from cholera was far worse than reported in the newspaper (around 14). It was more like 300 deaths. People had been pushed into mass graves for buriel. The people told us that their goats had either died or been sold for a small price to buy food. My husband organized a food line for dry food to be given out, knowing it was little help for most.
Cal and school principle giving food to children
Child in goat skin dress